German engineering, high accuracy, and world-class designs: NOMOS Glashütte watches are all this and more. Started in 1990, the brand has a reputation for producing elegant and understated watches. It follows a minimalist approach in its designs. But what it lacks in splendor, it makes up for in perfectly executed mechanical features.
While NOMOS is much younger than its neighbors in Glashütte, that did not stop the brand from attracting a cult following and winning new fans every day. Its dress watches, in particular, offer some of the best value in the world, sporting classic designs with premium quality materials and timeless aesthetics.
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NOMOS Glashütte: History & 5 Best Watches to Buy Today
For more than three decades, NOMOS Glashutte has been manufacturing minimalist watches and in-house movements—a feat that few other Glashütte-based manufacturers can accomplish. The brand released its first collection in 1991 which included four models: the Ludwig, Orion, and Tangente in 35mm round cases, and Tetra, which had a 29.5mm square case.
The highlight of this early collection had to be the Tangente, which featured the most classic look of all. It is an old-school, 1930 Bauhaus-inspired model, a style movement that persists to this day. Look at virtually any watch brand and you’re likely to find something similar in its lineup.
German-Made Movements
Much of NOMOS’s fame is owed to its ability to produce its in-house movement. From 1992 through 2005, the brand used Swiss-made movements, particularly Swiss ETA and Peseux ebauche movements. But, to have the Glashütte stamp on its watches, 50% of their value had to be produced in the area.
With that said, NOMOS made quite a few modifications such as refinishing the crown and barrel wheels, replacing some screws with blued steel, and adding Glashütte stripes on the bridges. It also added rhodium plating to make them oxidation-resistant. As a result, ETA eventually asked the brand to remove the ETA stamp from its movements.
After a few more significant iterations, NOMOS was eventually able to produce over 50% of its value in Glashütte and earned the right to add the coveted Glashütte stamp on their timepieces. Fast forward to the present, NOMOS now manufactures 15 in-house movements, the latest of which is the DUW 6101—its most advanced movement by far, made completely from scratch.
With all these features, these German watches are some valuable investments that are worth adding to your collection. Here are 5 of our favorite models.
5 Best NOMOS Watches You Should Buy Today
NOMOS offers a massive selection of elegant and high-class timepieces. With that said, here are five models from the German brand which are worth looking closer at.
Orion 1989 Manual-Winding Black Dial Ref. 385
Orion offers a range of classic and elegant watches reduced to essentials at accessible price points. It is a favorite among many for its minimalist aesthetic.
There are over 20 different models under the collection including this 1989 manual-winding reference. It features a black dial in a 38mm stainless steel case and is presented on a black leather bracelet. It has 43 hours of power reserve and a 30m water resistance rating.
Metro 38 Ref. 1109
Another classic yet exceptional take on a watch, this Metro 38 model is admired for its slim hands, minimalist dot indexes, and a white silver dial. It is housed in a 35mm stainless steel case, complemented with a black leather band.
Inside is an Alpha movement that boasts 43 hours of power reserve and 30 m water resistance. With a case size as such, it appeals to both men and women.
Tetra Fidelio Manual-Winding Dark Blue Dial Ref. 450
In an attempt to create minimalist watches, other timepieces that we see these days often come off as quite traditional and bland in design. But NOMOS is one of the few brands that are capable of taking a minimalist approach in their watches while keeping them interesting and playful. Take this Tetra Fidelio, for example.
It’s a nautical-looking watch with a dark blue dial finish, silver-tone hands, and Arabic numerals. It is housed in a 29.5mm square case with an open case back. With an in-house-built Alpha movement, it guarantees the highest accuracy with an impressive 43 hours of power reserve.
Tangente Silver/Leather 35mm Ref. 139
For more than 30 years, the Tangente has been one of the brand’s best-selling models. It boasts a range of classic-looking three hand watches, including this reference that features a Bauhaus-inspired dial—a mix of printed Arabic numerals and baton hour markers with blued hands that provide a great contrast against the classic white dial.
With a 35mm stainless steel case, the watch looks perfectly proportioned and highly legible. This reference is finished with black leather straps and powered by the manually-wound Alpha movement.
Tangomat 38.3mm Automatic White Dial Ref. 601.s13
As its name suggests, the Tangomat is an automatic watch powered by the caliber DUW 5001—a first for the brand. This movement offers the same time-only functions as the Alpha caliber, including hours, minutes, and sub-seconds.
This particular reference features a white dial with a mix of Arabic numerals and baton hour markers. It sports a 38.3mm stainless steel case that guarantees 30m of water resistance and is presented in a matching stainless-steel band.
Takeaway
NOMOS is one of today’s most successful watch brands that continue to grow in business, even as its competitors are losing market share to smaller brands. It produces more mechanical watches than any other German-based manufacturer and is leading the market in terms of domestic mechanical watch sales.
Besides Germany, the brand has also already penetrated the international market, exporting to the US and more than 50 other countries in Great Britain and Asian regions.
The brand owes much of its success to its ability to achieve a distinctly modern aesthetic in its watches while maintaining the characters of traditional watchmaking. It takes pride in pairing artisanal skills with the most advanced high-tech manufacturing systems available today to create the most precise watches, regardless of the components involved.
